We had read in The Milepost that the Alaska Highway could have bad spots despite the boastful claim of being paved over its entire length. Until the leg between Whitehorse and Beaver Creek, we had not experienced anything out of the ordinary. That all changed about a hour out of Whitehorse. Of course, the improved spring-summer weather allowed for road to be repaired, and we ran into the first of many sections being fixed, as well as, others awaiting their spot on the schedule. It didn’t take long before we fully recognized the signage being used to alert drivers. I became a sort of forward lookout for MFI and would shout out the appropriate warning: “flags,” “bumps,” “corduroy,” or “potholes,” to mention only a few. The rain we soon ran into at least helped MFI follow the vehicle tracks to avoid hazards, while at the same time, we knew Arthur was getting filthy.
Aside from the road conditions, the weather was clear for the most part. The scenery was spectacular, particularly after we passed Haines Junction and paralleled Kluane National Park and Reserve and Lake Kluane on our way to Beaver Creek (population 93).
About halfway along Lake Kluane, my driver needed a nap, so we pulled into a roadside convenience stop (an unpaved area with port-a-potties). I walked around the area as she slept and took some photographs.
Our campsite was at Discover Yukon Lodgings, which had a Beaver Creek address, but was nestled remotely along the White River 33 miles east. I say remote because the nearest place to buy groceries was an hour away in either Tok AK, or Destruction Bay, YT. Despite this, the park staff made sure we could get anything we might need. The park was woman-owned and operated primarily by two young ladies from Europe. We found our site to be cozy and spacious and the grounds were well-kept with attractive landscaing. We went to the office and lounge area each morning for coffee and use of the only-available internet signal. The property included a grass airfield that was being used as a material staging area for some environmental research project nearby. A helicopter moved material from the park to the research site over the better part of two afternoons.
I took a hike around the park grounds one afternoon and to the river shoreline on the other. The owner warned me of bears reported in the area and advised the river hike was likely the safer bet. I had my bear spray and blew my whistle periodically to announce my presence. The White River was very wide where I entered the shoreline, and I explored a vast sandbank. Driftwood was abundant, and I photographed the incredible variety of rocks (33 in total). Again, I wished for even the slightest knowledge of geology to provide me a deeper understanding of and appreciation for these beautiful rocks. There was a collection in the lounge, each with a card listing the type, formation, and age of displayed stones. I added this information below where there was a match.
I also photographed some pretty flora, insects, and picturesque scenes before returning to camp.
We left the park after three nights feeling very relaxed; however, that didn’t last long. The 50-mile stretch of Alaskan Highway between our park and the border crossing into Alaska was riddled with damaged sections that had our teeth rattling. We learned that the road damage is caused by one or more of these reasons: thawing permafrost, heavy truck traffic, and seismic movement. On a positive note, we’d soon be back in Alaska.
