To get to the Arctic Ocean, we needed to drive 654 miles across the Alaskan interior, cross back into Canada, and reach Dawson City, YK for final preparations. The travel plan for Alaska included 3-nights in Anchorage, 3-nights in Chistochina, and 3-nights in Tok. Step one was getting back to Anchorage, by far Alaska’s biggest city with a population of 291,247. The weather had begun to clear, and this provided a chance to capture the scenery along the way.






The final 49 miles into Anchorage follows the eastern shore of the Turnagain Arm, a river-fed bay flowing west into Cook’s Inlet. This is significant because the up-to-40-feet tidal change in the Arm is the largest in the U.S. This tide often begins with what is called a tidal bore, a strong tide moving up the Arm against the outgoing current. The leading edge of the incoming tide can form a wave that reaches maximum heights from 6-10 feet and can travel between 5 and 15 miles per hour, depending on weather conditions and the lunar phase and position. Tidal bores occur around the world; however, only a few, such as Turnagain Arm Bore Tide, are famous. Having researched this bore tide beforehand, I hoped we would have the opportunity to observe it.
As we drove Hanna to the airport the day before, I was enjoying the countryside, when to my unexpected surprise I saw the bore tide travelling up the Arm on our left. Because it was all happening so fast, I didn’t try to take a picture but shouted to Hanna and MFI to have a look. I estimated it to be about 2-3 feet high, and fortunately, both MFI and Hanna confirmed seeing it.
This really wet our whistle for returning during our stay in Anchorage to try and witness it again and capture a video if possible. Because of its fame and popularity, there was detailed information online as to the times and locations for sightings. On the second morning, we awoke early and drove to viewing point 1 south of Bird Ridge, 35 minutes south of town. We weren’t alone. I’d estimate 100 others had the same idea. Despite being there at the recommended time, we didn’t see a bore tide wave, although the strength and depth of the incoming tide was very obvious. Not to leave readers hanging though, I’ve embedded a substitute video taken several months earlier by the professionals at Sun Room. Nonetheless, views of the Arm from Bird Ridge were terrific.


Since we were going to be in Alaska for MFI’s 75th birthday, she had proposed to the Bunner and Gomez families to come and join in the celebration. For a variety of valid reasons, this didn’t happen. However, at one point during all the discussions of what we’d do if they joined us, our son-in-law Michael made it clear he wouldn’t travel all that way and at great expense to go to the “$@#*&” Anchorage Zoo. Hence, we had to take the photo below. We didn’t got into the zoo, but enjoyed shopping in their gift store for the grandkids. There I learned about Binky, an orphaned but rescued North Slope male Polar Bear cub, who was one of the zoo’s biggest attractions for nearly 20 years. Who doesn’t love Polar Bears,right? His stardom skyrocketed in 1994 (went viral in today’s terminology), when within a 6-week period he mauled both a photopgrapher and drunken teenager whom had gotten to close to his fenced enclosure. News of the maulings received world-wide coverage, with the vast majority of sentiment and reaction supporting the beloved bear. A year later, Binky and his cagemate Nuka, died within two weeks of each other from liver failure after contracting sarcocystosis, a parasitic disease . Twenty-five years later, Binky merchandise continues to bring in funds for the zoo. For example, printed illustrations of Binky (circa 1978) by Alaskan artist Fred Machetanz were being sold for $90. Wow, paying that would have been another mauling. I compromised with this picture of the print.


There being no significant attractions in Anchorage, our time was spent running errands, checking out residential neighborhoods for fun, visiting some parks, and finding good places for coffee and dinner. Delaney Park Strip, a half mile long greenbelt between 10th and 11th avenues, contained the Centennial Rose Garden (the roses were no longer in bloom) and the Alaska Veteran’s Memorial. The memorial was well-designed and filled with commemorative statues and monuments, on which were engraved the names of every Alaskan soldier killed in all U.S. involved wars and conflicts. It was a touching tribute. We enjoyed our afternoon coffee at Chickadee’s, a little neighborhood shop, and celebrated our belated birthdays at an Italian/seafood restaurant called Orso. We sat at the bar, savored our meal, and treated ourselves to Tiramisu (hands down our favorite dessert choice). Happy, Happy Birthday to Ms Fix It and The Pool Man.
As usual, I had found our Anchorage campground using RV Trip Wizard. It did not have a particularly high rating; however, significant improvements had clearly been made after the most recent reviews, and we were pleasantly surprised with the park and our FHU spot. Economical and roomy! But it was time to move on to Chistochina. We had 229 miles ahead of us, mostly along the same road we’d travelled when we departed Palmer earlier in August on our way to Valdez. Overnight, it had snowed above 3,000 feet. I couldn’t resist taking more pictures of this beautiful section of highway.







We felt the rainbow over the forests around Chistochina was a positive sign of hope and success for the adventure ahead.