We learned from The Milepost that the AMHS (Alaskan Marine Highway System) had a car/truck/RV ferry, which ran from Skagway, AK to Bellingham, WA every two weeks. MFI, still the full-time driver, had already decided she was not driving the Alaskan Highway all the way back to the lower-48 come September. Instead, her plan was to load Sid-Arthur aboard the ferry, treat ourselves to a cabin, and enjoy a leisurely 4-day inner-coastal sail to Washington. This would cut over 3-weeks of driving off our initial schedule, and while clearly a no-brainer, it now required we rearrange our stops slightly.
Originally, we were going to drive from Watson Lake to Whitehorse, but we were so close at this point to the Alaskan Panhandle (also known as Southeast Alaska), we decided instead to head to Skagway via Carcross (population 301). We figured we’d do a dry run of where to camp while in Skagway and check out the logistics of how and where to board the ferry. So we diverted from Whitehorse and started the 256-mile leg between Watson Lake and Carcross.
We hadn’t been on the road long when signs alerted us to Rancheria Falls. Why not? Having plenty of time left in the day, MFI took the exit. I hiked to the falls along a well-built, half-mile boardwalk through the boreal forest, which extends across Canada just south of treeline. The trees here included: black and white spruce, lodgepole pine, and tamarack according to the interpretive sign at the trailhead. This specific forest had burned 100 years ago and was only now in the latter stages of recovery. We learned northern forests damaged by wildfire require an incredibly long time to recover, and sadly, we continued to see evidence of this.
The falls didn’t have much of a drop, but the volume of rushing water roared loudly, and the setting was spectacular. Well worth the potty-break.
Carcross was originally called Naataase Heen, Tagish for “water running through the narrows” and was the First Nation home of Tlingit and Tagish people. They camped here to hunt and fish as far back as 4,500 years as proven by discovered artifacts. It was subsequently renamed “Caribou Crossing” after the large herd which migrated across the land bridge connecting Lake Bennett and Nares Lake, southwest and southeast of Carcross, respectively. In the late 1800’s, the caribou were hunted to near extinction during the goldrush; however, numbers have increased marginally since thanks to various recovery programs. The unincorporated community was a popular stop for prospectors on their way to the gold fields around Dawson City, YT. Caribou Crossing was renamed Carcross in 1904 to prevent on-going mail mix-ups with the Cariboo (correct spelling) Regional District in British Columbia.
Carcross refers to the Carcross/Tagish First Nation of Canada, descendants of the Tagish and Tlingit indigenous peoples. They were comprised of two large moieties or parts, Wolf and Crow; and each part further consisted of distinct clans. The Wolf moiety contained the Killer Whale and Wolf clans; while the Crow moiety included the Beaver, Raven, Crow, and Frog clans. Members of one moiety were required to marry into the other, such that their cultures eventually merged. Today, they continue a tradition of creating crests, totems, and regalia to express their spiritual dependence on and connection with land, water, and animals. Examples of totems identifying the stories of clans people and animals were prominently on display in front of the local government buildings across from our campsite.
I googled the Carcross/Tagish moieties to find out the meaning behind the various animal clans. On a superficial level only, the Wolf symbolizes strength, loyalty, and the important bond of kinship and is responsible for guiding people to live the way the creator intended. The Crow represents creative principles and the sun, acts as a guide and messenger of the gods, and organizes the world to produce civilizations and cultures. The Killer Whale signifies family, romance, longevity, harmony, opportunity, community, and protection when traveling. The Beaver stands for creativity, cooperation, persistence, and harmony. The Raven is the creator of the world, can be a trickster who likes to cause trouble, exposes truth, but sometimes keeps truths secret when they might hurt people. Finally, the Frog symbolizes transformation, renewal, and interconnections of humans with the spirit worlds.
We camped at the Carcross Grocery and RV Park, another unexpected retail combination not too different from our experience at Watson Lake. Three mid-eastern men ran the place, and when I registered at the grocery counter, the one in charge said we could pick any open spot, of which there were plenty. The entire operation seemed a bit rundown from our perspective; but being the only grocer, liquor store, and filling station in town, the flow of customers was constant enough to be profitable. A short walk from camp was Nares Lake with Nares Mountain as a backdrop.
Carcross survives primarily on tourism. Tourists from cruise ships arriving in Skagway, take the White Pass & Yukon Railway on a scenic 67.5-mile ride to Carcross where the train stops long enough, before returning to Skagway, for a half afternoon of shopping and dining at the numerous First Nation artisan vendors, galleries, and lone restaurant located in Carcross Commons and the legendary Matthew Watson General Store (part of the historic downtown). And yes, this is the same railway that brought soldiers and material to Whitehorse for building the Alaskan Highway. We never rode the train, but saw all the town had to offer.
Our first visit into town was to find a good espresso coffee shop and have a look around. We found great caffeine drinks and outstanding pastries at Caribou Crossing Coffee in The Commons. This definitely became our go-to spot for our daily second cup.
The predominate feature in The Commons was the Story Pole totem standing tall in the center. The carvers were tasked with commemorating characters and events crucial to the history and values of the Carcross/Tagish people.
The interpretive panels explained the six stacked figures shown in the video. At the bottom, a Coastal Tlingit Man wrapped in the raven’s tail blanket signifies the Tlingit trade relationship with the Tagish people. Above him, a Tagish Woman grasps a box symbolizing the intermarriage of the Tagish and Coastal Tlingit people. Next, the Killer Whale represents Skookum Jim (an indigenous hero). Tradition holds that Jim rescued a Frog, which in turn led him to discover gold in the Klondike. Second from the top, the Thunderbird symbolizes the construction of the railroad and its subsequent impacts on the Carcross/Tagish people. And finally, the Copper Shield/Taa Naa represents spiritual wealth and balance.
We strolled a short distance from The Commons to see the depot and small downtown. The General Store originally supported the needs of miners, prospectors, and trappers. Today, it offers an incredible collection of outdoor clothing, dry goods, and a broad range of animal skins including: wolf, fox, bison, bear, lynx, beaver, and more. We could only presume, based on the substantial amount of inventory carried, that tourist and First Nation consumers keep their business booming.
We spent a lot of time in the train station/gift shop/museum, where we met the station manager. He graciously spent a lot of time with us, answered all our questions, and explained the rich history of this tiny community. He was much friendlier than his expression below would indicate.
While MFI went off on her own, I moved down the street and photographed the rebuilt Caribou Hotel (originally established in 1898 during the height of the goldrush but burned down in 1908). The proprietor saw me poking around taking pictures and came out to greet me. I queried, “Does the bar still get surly”? She chuckled and assured me her patrons continued to prove the saloon lived up to its name.
By now we were hungry and shared a meal and a local beer at The Bistro back in The Commons. The food was delicious, the atmosphere was fitting, and even water was being used to promote the Yukon brand. Admittedly, it was quite crispy.
Carcross, depite being in the Yukon, was the first place that met our vision of what it must be like to live in Alaska and the far north. These pictures, taken across town, reinforced that vision by capturing the river, the snowy mountains, a smallness amid bigness, the simplicity of buildings, an undeniable ruggedness, and a hint of cold. I felt as if to fit in I needed to grow long hair and a beard.
The morning we left, the weather was gray and rainy and, of course, required a stop at Caribou Crossing Coffee. MFI pulled into the parking lot and dropped me off, while she found a spot to park. I entered, greeted the barrista and the sole customer already enjoying her coffee, and placed my order. Feeling a presence behind me and confident it was MFI, I quickly turned ready to give her a big hug but came face-to-face with a surprised woman about my age. I apologized for startling her and said, “Sorry, I thought you were my wife.”
Dead serious, she replied , “Oh trust me, if that were the case, you wouldn’t like it at all.”
I sat down to wait for our order as she began hers. “I’m looking for something hot and spicy.” Wait, what?
“I was just… right there in front of you,” I quipped to the laughter of both the barrista and woman enjoying her coffee.
Sometimes you simply can’t make this shit up.
